Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Neemrana - first trip outside New Delhi




 

The pictures here are of Neemrana, a 15th centuy Fort Palace on the fringes of Rajasthan, where we had a faculty retreat a couple of weeks ago.  I thought we were heading to a tired 2 star hotel on the outskirts of Delhi, so you can appreciate my awe as we climbed our way up this mountainside, wending our way deeper into this  labryinth of stairwells and gardens, turrets, screened rooms and arched balconies.  Craig and I hiked to the top of the mountain one evening to find the unmarked ruins of a fortification overlooking  hills of  forest and streams, unpopulated except for goats and herders, their faint cries the only sounds of civilization.   Swallows dipped close to our heads feeding voraciously.  The birdlife here is unexpectedly healthy and diverse.  A bird the size of a bluejay with gorgeous turquoise wings swept in front of us and alighted on a nearby tree, curious about our presence in its territory. Even Craig was charmed.  
Evan had a great time with the other faculty kids, friends now, Sam recently from Korea and Julie from France.  They told spooky stories by flashlight, the gothic setting perfect for their antics.  Saturday evening local musicians, singers and dancers set up on a deck overlooking the entire valley, and invited us to join them in swirling frenzies and elegant, sexy 'folk dancing'.  These folk had a more evolved attitude about relationships between the genders than my folk, if the moves of these dances are any indication.  
Craig and I experienced their specialty spa massage: two people work you over on a wooden board, lathering you with oil like they are marinating you for the evening's meal, then you are put in a medieval looking sauna box, with head stuck out on top, and once you are scalded, they scrub you down in a warm shower.  It was heavenly.  
So, put Neemrana on your lists of must-stays in India.  It was entrancing.  I can't wait to get further into Rajasthan, a land where life can resemble what it was when these palaces were constructed.  
For much better shots of this place, check out my talented colleague, Eric Johson's photo essay on this weekend:  Neemarana by Eric  An additional gallery shows his black and whites of Neemrana village life.  He captures ordinary but amazing moments.

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